Outdoor 21 Marzo 2013 Back to the list
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Ines Papert sends Senja ice climb in Norway

On Norways' Senja island Ines Papert has made the first ascent of Finnmannen (M9+ WI7, 400m) together with Bent Vidar Eilertsen.

Ines Papert sends Senja ice climb in Norway

Senja lies next to the Lofoten islands and offers a lot of untouched rock and ice. Ines Papert and friends (Thomas Senf, Nina and Christian Schlesener) climbed and opened their routes ‘traditional Norwegian style’ which means without bolts.


The absolute highlight of the trip – except from the amazing norther lights at night – was the first ascent of a 400m (1300 feet) long mixed climb “Finnmannen” M9+/WI7/E8 clean (a handful of pitons were used).

Ines teamed up with local Bent Vidar Eilertsen. She took the lead, laden with gear, but after 10m of climbing, the crack they thought would bring them to the ice above came to an end. Unable to protect a direct line and unwilling to use bolts, Ines traversed right and found a path through 20m of tricky climbing. Unfortunately, the two climbers ran out of gear and decided to retreat.

The following morning, equipped with even more gear, they successfully made it through the mixed pitches—but not without difficulty on the crux traverse. "Bent still had to traverse. Unfortunately he did break his blade in the first meters," Ines says, "but I convinced him to keep going."

It took Eilertsen two hours to get through the traverse pitch with a broken pick—yet this M9+ crux was just halfway. In an impressive 19 hour push, the pair finished Finnmannen (WI6+ M9+, 400m) by headlamp.


The team made the most of their 10-day stay to climb a series of other routes nearby which include the first ascent of Aurorabuttress M7/WI6+ 250m (Ines Papert, Thomas Senf) 

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