First Ascent of the West Ridge of Gasherbrum 3
The Odyssey of Tom Livingstone and Aleš Česen
Tom Livingstone, along with Slovenian alpinist Aleš Česen, achieved a monumental feat by making the first ascent of the West Ridge of Gasherbrum 3 (7952 m) during a seven-day expedition. This project, born from a decade-long dream, pushed both climbers to their physical and technical limits on one of the world's highest mountains.
A Project Born from a Ten-Year Dream
For ten years, Tom Livingstone had dreamed of climbing a technical alpine route at high altitude. This desire led him to ask: what is the hardest route one can climb at nearly 8000 meters? Can the difficulty of the Alps, Alaska, or the Canadian Rockies be transported to the world’s tallest peaks? Together with Aleš Česen, they set out to explore this challenge.
In 2022, they had already attempted Gasherbrum 3 but were forced to turn back due to bad weather. After this experience, Aleš, having previously climbed Gasherbrum 4, steered their new attempt toward G3, which they finally succeeded in conquering.


A Demanding and Technical Ascent
The West Ridge of Gasherbrum 3 proved to be a true test of endurance for Tom and Aleš. The ascent took seven days, with three successive bivouacs at 7100 m, 7500 m, and 7800 m. The final bivouac, at 7800 meters, was particularly memorable for the two alpinists, as they spent the night sitting in the snow, without a tent, adding an extra layer of physical challenge to the already grueling climb.
On August 4th, after relentless effort, they reached the summit of Gasherbrum 3 around noon. They named their route Edge of Entropy, a reference to the concept of entropy, which Tom had explored during the expedition. Aleš, with his PhD in physics, expanded on the idea that entropy represents a loss of order and a shift toward disorder, a state they both felt as they climbed higher and higher.
Alpinism in Its Purest Form
Tom Livingstone and Aleš Česen embody an approach to alpinism based on freedom and autonomy. For them, climbing a mountain without supplemental oxygen, fixed ropes, Sherpa support, or other teams is the very essence of the sport. Altitude, which slowly destroys the body and mind, was one of the greatest challenges of their expedition.
Livingstone expresses respect for those who use such support techniques, but he emphasizes that their style of alpinism is different, focusing on "the art of freedom." At nearly 8000 meters, every decision becomes vital, and every move is a return to the basics of survival.
A Careful Descent via Gasherbrum 2’s Normal Route
After reaching the summit, Tom and Aleš decided to descend via the normal route of Gasherbrum 2, using some of the fixed ropes in place. While this shifted their climbing style from pure to pragmatic, it ensured their safety after the immense effort of the preceding days. This decision reflects a form of alpinism where safety takes priority.
A Triumphant Return to Civilization
Seven days after their departure from base camp, the two climbers finally returned to civilization. Tired, lighter, but elated, they relished their success. Gasherbrum 3, less famous than its neighbors like Gasherbrum 4, represents much more to them than just another summit—it is the fulfillment of a long-held dream, the reward for superhuman effort, and an experience that will be etched in their memories forever.
With this first ascent, Tom Livingstone and Aleš Česen not only made their mark on the history of alpinism, but also explored the limits of their own resilience. Edge of Entropy, their route, stands as a symbol of the struggle between order and chaos, both physically and mentally, at altitudes where humanity seems to fade into the vastness of the Himalayan mountains.