Discovering Haute Maurienne
by Gravel Bike
Sometimes, you don’t need to go far to experience new adventures. This summer, Sébastien Jarrot aka @cycliste_tricolore takes you in the footsteps of Hannibal, in Haute Maurienne.
This summer, Sébastien Jarrot aka @cycliste_tricolore takes you in the footsteps of Hannibal, in Haute Maurienne.
Imagine unpaved roads among lakes and snow-capped peaks, between 1,500 and 3,000 meters in altitude. High valleys and their alpine pastures covered in flowers, all dominated by mineral peaks. We will follow old military roads dotted with abandoned forts that run along the border with Italy. Welcome to Haute Maurienne, the ideal playground for Gravel biking.
I’m heading towards Lanslevillard, at the foot of the Mont-Cenis pass, at the start of July, accompanied by Hillary Allen, an ultra-runner #julboathlete. We are going to meet Jérôme Furbeyre, a local of Haute Maurienne and our guide for three days of high mountain adventures.
I propose to you three Gravel bike routes of different formats and levels of difficulty. Three itineraries that, by the beauty of their panoramas, will make you dizzy.
DAY 1 – MONT-FROID / DIFFICULTY: ***
Starting from Lanslevillard, this high-altitude route above Lake Mont-Cenis offers a magnificent view of the Vanoise glaciers, which make up the largest ice cap in Europe.
Most of the route is done by bike, on 4x4 tracks and trails traced by hikers’ passage.
The highest point of the itinerary is at the summit of Mont-Froid. After a short section where you will have to carry your bike, you will reach a singletrack. The alpine trail will lead you to the summit, which peaks at 2,819 meters. You will then enjoy an unobstructed view and a 360-degree panorama over the Maurienne valley and the unmissable Gran Paradiso!
Another must-see stop on this route: the Petit Mont Cenis refuge. The welcome is very warm and the traditional diots-polenta served at lunch is a must.
An alternative is to go to the Fort de la Turra from the Mont-Cenis pass. A remnant of the wars between France and Italy, this fort is full of underground galleries. The setting and atmosphere are worth the detour!
This route does not present major technical difficulties, but the elevation requires good physical condition.
DAY 2 – COL CLAPIER / DIFFICULTY: ****
A round trip in the footsteps of Hannibal Barca, who is said to have crossed the Alps with his army of elephants in the 2nd century BC. A very alpine itinerary starting from the pass and the Petit Mont Cenis refuge.
This mixed route combines wide unpaved roads and alpine trails, in a mineral environment on the final section.
Several passages offer panoramic views of the neighboring valleys, including the Étache and Ambin valleys.
Arrival at Lake Savine marks the highest point of the itinerary, at the place where Hannibal and his troops are said to have set up camp. A place full of history that leads to the Clapier pass, at the top of which you can admire the Susa Valley in good weather.
I do not recommend this route in high season (from June and on weekends). Indeed, it is very busy with Italian tourists in summer.
DAY 3 – THE BALCONIES OF HAUTE MAURIENNE / DIFFICULTY: *
A superb Gravel bike route easily accessible from the Madeleine pass. This itinerary, suitable for cyclists of all levels, runs mostly along the north of Bessans to reach the picturesque hamlet of l’Écot, one of the highest in France.
A route that invites you to discover the villages of Bonneval-sur-Arc and Bessans, connected by gravel paths and small undulations.
The climb out of Bonneval, which takes you to the foot of the Vallonnet glacier and allows you to reach a beautiful descent to the hamlet of l’Écot, is the only difficulty.
It is possible to continue after l’Écot to and from the sources of the Arc, in a splendid mineral valley up to the chalets of the Duis.
Here are some tips to help you make the most of these different circuits:
- Favor tire sections over 40 mm, ideally tubeless;
- Bring a light waterproof jacket, as the weather is changeable with the effects of the lombarde – a strong wind coming from Italy and passing through the Mont-Cenis pass;
- Always carry cash, as few refuges accept bank cards;
- Take the time to admire the landscape and chat with locals; Haute Maurienne is a unique and still preserved place.
I await you in Haute Maurienne, on the border between France and Italy, but also at the edge of new alpine trails and new adventures. Where the road ends, the Gravel bike adventure begins.
Travel back in time by bike, between high mountains and places steeped in history: the perfect ingredient for practicing Gravel biking.
For more information, do not hesitate to contact Jérôme Furbeyre. This mountain guide and MTB instructor will guide you through these routes or help you discover new ones.
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Text @cycliste_tricolore
Photos @focal_77 and @jeromefurbeyre
