Gasherbrum II : Knowing When to Change the Goal
This year, conditions in the Gasherbrum massif were far from easy. Dry faces, huge amounts of ice and very few days of good weather—all combined with a level of heat I had never experienced in the mountains before.
This year, conditions in the Gasherbrum massif were far from easy. Dry faces, huge amounts of ice and very few days of good weather—all combined with a level of heat I had never experienced in the mountains before.
For Jérôme and me, it quickly became clear that we would have no chance on G4. So we decided to shift our focus and attempt a new route on Gasherbrum II.
In the mountains, you have to know when to change your mind. Sometimes, the best decision is not to keep chasing the goal you initially set at all costs, but to have the clarity to read the conditions, adapt and find a new objective. For me, this too is part of alpinism.
On July 18, just when everything was ready, yet another surprise came our way: water flows and constant rockfall, even at very high altitudes, between 6,000 and 7,000 metres.
Meanwhile, conditions on the normal route were also complicated. Expeditions on the mountain were blocked by the large amount of snow accumulated between 7,000 and 8,000 metres.
We experienced a frantic and confusing day at Camp 1, at 6,000 metres. Commercial expeditions did not know what to do and had no clear strategy, with only three days of good weather left.
We decided to descend to base camp, reorganise and attempt a fast ascent—just the way we like it.
A fast push to the summit
On July 20, Teto, Eti and I set off. In just 5 hours and 50 minutes, we reached Camp 2 at 6,500 metres, where we rested for a few hours. There, we rejoined our Austrian friends Benji and Egon. At 20:00, the five of us set off together for the summit push. At Camp 3, we caught up with the other climbers and Sherpas on the mountain. Thanks to great teamwork, at 10:30 we all reached the summit of Gasherbrum II, at 8,035 metres.
Being up there together, all five of us, was an incredible joy. Sharing this mountain with such special friends goes far beyond pure alpinism. We immediately began our descent and, at 20:00, after 24 hours of effort, we were back at base camp. Tired, but aware that we had experienced something special in a truly challenging season.
Beyond the summit
Over time, I’ve learned that it’s not always the hardest climbs that leave the deepest mark.
The ones that stay with us are those lived most intensely, shared with lifelong friends—the ones where you fight together until the very last metre.
A heartfelt thank you to Eti, Teto, Egon and Benji.
And thanks also to Je, for the support and encouragement.
François Cazzanelli
